Title Required
RSS Channel: Comments on: Ask Away! with Jeff Smith: What’s the Best Way to Clean Cylinder Walls Before Engine Assembly?
An Automotive Blog from Summit Racing
Generator:SimpleRSS ver 0.4 (BlueHippo) Release 1
Docs:http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss

By: Dave Canfield
Hello Dave Canfield here, Glenmont NY. I am relatively new (62 yrs old) in getting into the car modifications hobby. I have a 1955 / 4 door Chevy BelAir. I am working on replacing glass in both the front and the rear doors. Plus changing the vinyl fabric finishes and doorhandles. I am looking for some information/direction on taking the door apart to access\complete this work. Thank you for your time. Sincerely, Dave Canfield… 518-365-3319

By: Roy
Hi There I need a trans adapter from early 260/289 narrow 5 bolt bellhousing pattern to GM auto trans 700R4 Could you please point me in the right direction Thanks Roy

By: Kurtis
Hey I have a 650 hp small block chevy. 112 compression...I've always ran vp 112 fuel but gotten to expensive..can I get e98 and mix in 116 octane fuel to make e85 and run it in.my motor?? I always did this with a 602 crate engine but never with a 20,000$ motor..will it work?

By: How To Clean Cylinder Walls?
[…] Source: https://www.onallcylinders.com/2022/07/14/ask-away-with-jeff-smith-whats-the-best-way-to-clean-cylin… […]

By: Corey Dubel
What needs to be deleted before I do the engine swap on 2007 chevy trailblazer ls 4.2 i6 swapping out with 85 454 7.4l with turbo 400

By: Zeppo Jaworski
The important part after any method you use is to wipe it with oil until the final wiping cloth comes out clean. I refer Marvel Mystery Oil or Type "F" auto trans fluid just because I have used both for decades but most any good detergent oil will work fine.

By: Gregory Borzewski
This was really great to know. I'm old fashioned from the old days. Thanks very much. Gregory Borzewski from: American Brake Lube & Parts.

By: Jason
Most important is detergent with no sodium!

By: Dana
I always did an initial washing with Dawn in hot water using vegetable brushes on all the machined surfaces, followed by the ATF, which, in my case, has always been B&M Trick Shift; it has a heavier "grit" to it. I then hit it again with the Dawn/hot water/veggie brush on the entire block. Hit it with compressed air. I'm then very liberal with wiping everything down with acetone; using up 1/2 gallon is a common occurrence. If assembling the engine is the next step, I coat all machined surfaces with non-detergent 50W, otherwise spray the whole block down with WD-40.

By: Jay
Clean the cylinders as best as you can. Think they are clean now? Take a pressure washer to them,-it will remove a lot of metal you couldn't see. You then have to quickly dry and oil them. Been doing this for 40 years on industrial engines and my own projects.